City Spa - The Best Heat in town

It’s hard to beat the experience at central Los Angeles’s CITY SPA. A two-story mecca of feeling good in the body, this place has it all and does it right. And yes, the heat is incredible.

Here's a not so quick run-down on what you need to know about the best schivtz in Los Angeles.

Parking: Street parking only, and it’s fairly easy to come by, provided it’s not a street cleaning day. But even then, a couple turns around the block ought to do the trick.

Entrance: If you’re short on bania amenities (cap, broom, robe), this is a great place to stock up before you take your heat. They’ve got good quality gear for the serious sweatsmen.

A gentleman will sign you out a key and assign you a locker. Friendly folks, these, and happy to answer any questions.

You’ll pay when you leave, but it’s $25 if you come before 1 pm and $35 thereafter. Memberships are available.

Be aware that Men’s days are Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday; Monday, Wednesday and Saturday are co-ed days and bathing suit required. Please forgive the fact that I’ve never visited on a co-ed day and can’t quite explain how it works. The women’s facilities are upstairs, and though much smaller than the men's, I've peeked in there and they are clean and comfortable.

Locker Room: The locker room feels more like what you might find at a country club that at a bania, a comparison that’s warmly welcomed. A nice plush carpet, wide benches situated in front of lockers large enough to easily hold a large gym bag and a messenger bag. (More on why you might need all these things in Suggestions.)

On my last visit, the towel, sheet and sandals was a serve-yourself operation, which was deeply appreciated. Sometimes you need an extra towel and you feel like a heel about it. Allowing gentlemen to take what’s needed shows a level of respect.

The Facilities: This is really where City Spa is unmatched. They have everything, it's all in pretty good shape, and natural light and fresh air abound.

The Rock Room here is without a doubt the hottest rock sauna I’ve ever been in. It has two massive, open ovens and it’s three walls of benches could easily seat thirty gentlemen. And because this bania is frequented heavily by Russians, they keep it dry as a bone. Early in my days, I made the mistake of bringing in a bucket of cold water to dump over my head as I’ve done in every other rock room I’d been in. The splash of water on the ground was met with a chorus of fiery Russian and it was made clear that the only water allowed in that room was the water used for a plaitza.

I happen to like the experience of rinsing off while still in the heat, and to me, that’s one of the reasons for having a rock room, but it’s been explained that drier equals hotter, and these dudes like it hot, so there you go.

Cold Plunge and Swimming Pool: The best reason not to complain about the absence of water in the rock room is due to it’s abundance in the rest of the facility. The cold plunge is right outside the rock room, and it’s both deep and cold. However, I, like many gentlemen here, forsake the cold plunge and go straight for the swimming pool, just a few feet away. The pool is about 50 feet long, maybe 20 wide. Not big enough to swim laps in (not that you’d want to) but certainly big enough to float around and get loose. It’s nice and cool, too, so you’re able to stay in quite a bit longer than you would in the cold plunge. The effects of this can be extremely heady, so exercise caution here.

The Wood Sauna: You’d think with as fantastic as the rock room is, they’d skimp somehow on the wood sauna. But you’d think wrong. It’s clean – old planks are replaced regularly – and it’s hot. Though not nearly as big as the rock room, this is a comfortable sized sauna. One of my favorite features of this sauna is it’s antechamber. This allows gentlemen who want just a good warm to hang out in comfort, and it also helps keep the sauna hotter by letting out less heat each time the door opens.

The Steam Room: This isn’t the kind of steam you find at the gym. It’s a gentle, warm steam. The guys here know that there’s no point in sweating in a steam heat. (In fact, most good sweatsmen find that notion kind of gross.) But it’s quiet and warm and alive with the smell of eucalyptus and an all around wonderful place to breath and relax after you’ve done a circuit of heat.

The Hot Tub: Not only is there a hot tub, but it’s located directly under a gigantic skylight and surrounded by potted plants and Corinthian columns. I know. It’s almost too good to be true.

Showers are located right in this facility, and offer the common trio of body product. There are wee little columns with shower heads and a mirror in front for shaving, and there are stone and tiled benches all throughout this main area.


So now you’ve had your heat and a steam and a rinse. Time to head upstairs to the sundeck to dry off as God intended: nude and in full sunshine. Retire to the shade and have a snack or write a review of the City Spa, as I am doing.

If you’re so inclined, you can lift some weights in the full gym they have up here (no elliptical machine, but Stairmasters and treadmills and lots lots of weights). Also on the second floor is the smoking room and the television room, both of which have never been in use whenever I’ve been here, and are good places to read, write, discreetly partake of a jazz cigarette, play cards or whathaveyou. There’s something called “The Bullshit Room” downstairs which is more or less the same thing.

There is a sleeping room upstairs, and it’s got three sort of daybed things. The light streams in gently from the windows and it’s quiet and peaceful. I’ve fallen asleep here by accident for a good spell.

The Café is the last thing to touch upon. It’s a nice feature, though eating in the café itself is kind of oppressive – but only in comparison to the peacefulness of the rest of the facility. I’ve had the borsht, and it was delicious. Beer is available.

Suggestions: Whenever I come to the City Spa, I’m going to make a day of it. Even at $25, it’s still a little pricey (and for me, a little far) for a quick heat, so I make sure I’m fully prepared with all my sauna accutremont as well as a book, my computer and a packed lunch.

I like to get in two good circuits, which go something like this:

• 5-10 minutes in the rock room (it’s hot, I tells ya)
• 5 in the swimming pool
• 15 recovery and watching the walls melt
• 15 in the sauna, or enough to allow a good, solid sweat
• 5 in the swimming pool
• 8 in recovery
• 10-20 in the steam room
• 3 in the hot tub
• Shower
• Respite

The café isn’t always open and apparently, not entirely in service (I've heard they're preparing food in some other kitchen and walking it over). I think it's easier to bring a sandwich and eat it on the rooftop in peace. They say you can’t bring in outside beers, and that’s a rule I respect, though I see it flaunted fairly regularly. After you eat, make sure you allow enough time to digest before your second circuit of heat.

It’s the best heat you can get in Los Angeles, unquestioned. Go, make a day of it, and enjoy.

5325 W Pico Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90019
(323) 933-5954

Avoiding Cruisers

So you want to get a good heat, but you're rattled from a run-in at the Y. Everything was going great: You had a finely beaded sweat happening, your heart-rate was up, and things were getting real. Then you look over and see the dude in the corner look away from you quickly, and also he's semi-erect.

How did this happen? And more importantly, what do you do?

Okay. This is unsavory business, but it must be dealt with, so let's get in to it. 

Allow me to start with a disclaimer. I welcome all gentlemen to the sauna (and will welcome women (my wife) as well (when I have my own sauna under the avocado tree out front)). The whole point of a good heat is the inclusiveness of it -- the brotherhood of man as he prepares for battle with these ancient, sacred methods. So I repeat: all gentlemen are welcome.

However, there are dudes who like to use the sauna as a research and even a business environment. This is a subculture within the homosexual community, it's been around for years, and in the proper environment, I say there's nothing wrong with it.

For those dudes who want the cruising experience, there are venues clearly dedicated to this kind of activity. A quick internet search for "Gay Bath house" will reveal the options in your area. On behalf of all gentlemen who just want to sweat in peace, please, avoid the legitimate bania or sauna and go to a designated location instead.

Alas, I know my plea will be ignored, and so to gentlemen who want to avoid cruisers in the schvitz, here's what you have to do.

PICK YOUR SPOTS: Dudes can be easily avoided by going to legit heat operations. These are easy to indetify.

Go where the Russians, Ukrainians and other eastern Europeans go. You can call and ask the desk -- they'll give you an idea of the clientele.

Go to spots that cost more that $20 to get in. Dudes are looking for a cheap thrill as opposed to a good heat, and a good heat is always worth the price.

Go on weekends and when crowds are high.

RESEARCH: This is crucial if you're going to a new sweat location, but can also allow you to return to places where you've had an unpleasant experience with a dude.

You'll need to bite the bullet and do a quick search on the Craigslist in your area. You're not going to like it, but you're going to have to go to Personals, Men Seeking Men, and do a search for "spa" "sauna" or whatever the name of your location is. If there's going to be "activity," you're probably going to know about it here first. Now you can choose to ignore the place altogether, or, you can check again and go on a day or at a time when activity is lower.

Again, this is also a good way to find an angle on returning to an otherwise spoiled spot.

Example: Here in Los Angeles, certain Korean spas were, for some reason, chosen by cruisers as a place to do business. It's unfortunate, because a favorite K-town spot of mine had a lovely and unusual amenity -- a radiant heat floor. You'd lie down and soak in a nice, gentle heat directly on the back -- perfect for spot treating problem areas after a good sweat in the sauna. But unfortunately, this was prime real estate for dudes who wanted to "present," and therefore it made it practically unusable. 

But the heat at this place is good, and that floor really does wonders for my back. So what I do is check Craigslist and if it looks like the place is going to be crowded with dudes, I skip it. But if I don't see any posts (or have checked enough to be savvy of the schedule), I go and find the place full only with Korean gentlemen, who are not too chatty and love a good steam heat.

(Note: the schivtz to which I'm referring has recently been remodeled, and on Craigslist I noted a post: Century Spa: RIP. Success!)

(Second note: If you're too squeamish to go on Craigslist in the Men Seeking Men category, then you're probably too squeamish to enjoy a good heat. Just relax, already. We're all gentlemen, here.)

DISSUADE: So, even with the best of research, you might find yourself facing a dude on the make. This is how you end it fast and final.

Leave -- This is the most obvious option, but also the one that I use the least. I paid for my heat, I'm following the rules, I'm in the right. It's not me that should have to go anywhere.

However, if it's just too uncomfortable, go rinse off and wait for the dude to get out of the heat. Your walking away should be enough to let him know that you're not interested in defiling the heat with the kind of behavior.

Speak up -- If you call these dudes out to their face, they'll get super embarrassed and leave quickly. I did this only once, when a guy with a wedding ring asked me "If I wanted to do this" as he was touching himself. I said, "NO. Jesus! Does your wife know you do this?" He flew out of that sauna.

That was more that I might have said if not directly engaged. But I've said simply, "No" to eye contact that's made me uncomfortable. That was enough to make a dude go away.

Wear a Sauna Hat -- If not for the myriad reasons listed in the previous post, a sauna cap is a clear sign to cruisers that you're not there for show. You're serious about the heat. It also implies that you're possibly Russian, and thus possibly very homophobic and capable of Russian-style violence. (Note: If any Russians care to argue that they are - by and large - accepting of people different from them, it's a debate I'd love to have in any bania.)

Make Talk -- A lot of times, it's hard to tell if a dude is checking you out. You're like, "This old dude sure is smiley at me." You don't exactly know what's going on, but you don't want it to get any creepier. Start a conversation. Talk about the heat. Talk about sports, the weather, anything. Control the situation and establish yourself as a gentlemen who uses the sauna in an acceptable way.

And there you have it. Remember that dudes are just misguided gentlemen and that they're trying to share what they consider to be a positive experience. It has nothing to do with you, and it's pretty easy to keep it that way.

The Sauna Hat

At any bania, bath house or sauna worth it's salt, you'll find folks wearing some manner of sauna hat. These are generally conical shaped hats made of wool, although it can be any sort of covering of the head.

Was that a chuckle I heard? You think wearing a cap in a sauna is too embarrassing because none of the other guys at the gym do it? Feh. If you're not going to take this serious, you might as well get your heat in your mom's jacuzzi bathtub then and leave space on the bench for a real sweatsmen. The cap is a crucial element to getting a good heat.

As we know, the basic idea of a sauna is to create heat in the body to stimulate organs and release toxins. And as we know, this feels like total forgiveness and freedom. Except in one organ: the brain.

Maybe you've felt like this before: You've got a good sweat going and you're deep into it. But you're starting to get a headache, and you're a little wobbly on your feet. There's a metallic taste in your mouth and you feel nauseous.

And my guess is you're not wearing a sauna cap and you've baked your brain like a three-cheese lasagna.

It happens, and it's a detriment to the enjoyment of a good heat. They know this in India, they've known it for years. They take their heat with their heads outside of the sauna. Note the wee head hole in this traditional, Ayurevic sauna cabinet.

Also, the head had more capillaries per square centimeter than other other part of the body. (If there are any medical doctors reading this who care to debate this fact, let's get in to it. I will not be intimidated by you.) Capillaries are particularly taxed by heat, and over-exposing them to high temperatures can do real damage.

You have probably been advised in the past that following your exposure to heat, you should wait an equal amount of time before you return (10 minutes in the sauna means 10 minutes of cooling down). This is to allow your capillaries to recover.

The theory behind the sauna hat is that it provides a barrier between the heat and your head, so that the sweat you produce actually has a chance to evaporate and cool the air in the cap. So the cap has to be pretty thick while at the same time allowing some air to circulate.

Caps are generally made out of wool felt, which is both thick and somehow very cool in the sauna. (Physicists, please feel free to weigh in here. I welcome and respect your knowledge and defer to you at every turn with humility and honor.) These are the kinds that you see the Russians and Finns wearing, as is pictured above.

I've also seen gentlemen wearing terry cloth, cotton and even baseball hats soaked in water. These won't work quite as well, as they don't provide enough space for air to cool and keep the head at an even temperature, but it's better than boiling your brains.

These caps are generally available at the front desk for about $20, or you can pick one up off the internet for five dollars less. They can simply be rinsed and air dried after your heat, and should last a lifetime. Remember to buy your hat before you go into the sauna, and not on your way out when you've admitted that I'm right. Make the investment, and enjoy!

The Finland Baths

I only had about an hour to spend at the Finland Baths, located in Sherman Oaks, which I thought was about perfect, seeing as I didn't know a thing about the place other than that it cost only $10 to get in and that it had been around for a while. I figured I'd just get a look around before deciding if I want to invest any serious time there.

Entrance and Parking: The entrance to the baths is handsome. The Finland Baths was opened in 1947 by a Finnish gentleman named Kari Passi (who, unfortunately, sold the outfit last year to a pair of women who aren't quite up to the task of running a good heat joint. More on this later). It has a lovely brick facade replete with ivy, and street parking was easily available right in front of the entrance.

Again, only ten bucks to get in, at which time you're offered eucalyptus oil (I didn't partake (maybe a mistake, but I would like to see how the regulars use it before investing (but only $5, which seems a good deal))) and water at a dollar/bottle. I then signed the requisite paperwork and was handed two towels and are given a brief tour of the facilities.

This part was a bit weird to me, because it involved the woman who signed me in coming into the Mens and showing me around. "Lady entering," she said, as she walked into the locker room. Eeesh. Time to hire a gentlemen to take care of this side of the business.

Lockers: These need some help. There's a set of 12 wooden cubbies, and about 7 have doors that still lock. I had to occupy two to accommodate my belongings. On a crowded day, this could be a real problem. On a Thursday night at 6 pm, there was space available.

The Mens: It's cozy in there, but there's enough space to get comfortable. They have a row of cots with closable curtains (for massage clients only) a big wall clock (appreciated) and a long, comfortable wooden bench near the "lockers" for respite and changing purposes. Sinks and toilets are in a separate room I didn't utilize.

Showers were a huge problem. Water pressure was extremely low and those terrible "rain-shower" heads were way to high. Also, the lights were out. It was dark as dark could be in there. So I there I am fighting to get the G-D shampoo out of my beard in the dark when I hear, "Woman entering..." Yeah. The place has a few problems. But for me, it's all about the heat.

The Heat: The Finland Baths boasts just one sauna, but it's a good one. This is one of the last remaining gas stoves in the city ... actually, it could be the last gas stove in a dry, wood-walled sauna. (The City Spa's ovens are gas fired, but the room is rock.) The rocks were piled high and were in good condition. The sauna itself has a cool layout, like a weird triangle sort shape with three levels. I situated myself on top and got ready to sweat.

I threw some water on the rocks. Instead of a sharp snap of steam, it just kind of farted back me. Bad sign. I looked to the thermometer. 145! NO! I could see the flames of the stove and they seemed to be cooking, but it didn't feel like this room was very hot

But after about 10 minutes, I had some good beads of sweat going. Something was working, but still, I wasn't hot hot. It wasn't until about 25 minutes into my bath that a gentleman named Matt came into the sauna. He teaches yoga in the studio above the Finland Baths, and he knew his way around. I asked if he knew how to get the stove cooking, and thank god, he did. He jiggled with the gas lines and the stove goes "Whooosh!" and kicks into gear. Obviously, better if the rocks have been heated for a long time and are just radiating this heat, but I wanted to cook, and Matt was the only answer for this. About 5 minutes later, the sauna's getting hot and Matt and I are having a nice chat about the facilities. He gives me the history on the original owner, a Finn who took exceptional pride in his sauna and stoked it with love and care for decades. Last year it changed hands, and it's been slowly falling into disrepair since (hence, the lights out in the showers, the un-stoked sauna, etc). Apparently the loyalists come on the weekends and are a friendly bunch who take their heat seriously. From these men, I hope to learn the secrets of how to correctly use eucalyptus oil.

Only one real problem exists with the heat, and that's the lack of a cold plunge. The weak showers do very little to provide a rapid cooling many consider necessary to a good heat. The fact that the sauna is so classy really underscores this lacking, essential element.

The Verdict: I'd spend some time there. Maybe not serious time, but I could see becoming a

regular at this joint. (It happens to be right close to where I teach ukulele on Thursday nights, and a good heat could certainly be worked into that arrangement.

(left, Finalnd Baths circa 1945; right Finland Bath circa 2005)