The Finland Baths

I only had about an hour to spend at the Finland Baths, located in Sherman Oaks, which I thought was about perfect, seeing as I didn't know a thing about the place other than that it cost only $10 to get in and that it had been around for a while. I figured I'd just get a look around before deciding if I want to invest any serious time there.

Entrance and Parking: The entrance to the baths is handsome. The Finland Baths was opened in 1947 by a Finnish gentleman named Kari Passi (who, unfortunately, sold the outfit last year to a pair of women who aren't quite up to the task of running a good heat joint. More on this later). It has a lovely brick facade replete with ivy, and street parking was easily available right in front of the entrance.

Again, only ten bucks to get in, at which time you're offered eucalyptus oil (I didn't partake (maybe a mistake, but I would like to see how the regulars use it before investing (but only $5, which seems a good deal))) and water at a dollar/bottle. I then signed the requisite paperwork and was handed two towels and are given a brief tour of the facilities.

This part was a bit weird to me, because it involved the woman who signed me in coming into the Mens and showing me around. "Lady entering," she said, as she walked into the locker room. Eeesh. Time to hire a gentlemen to take care of this side of the business.

Lockers: These need some help. There's a set of 12 wooden cubbies, and about 7 have doors that still lock. I had to occupy two to accommodate my belongings. On a crowded day, this could be a real problem. On a Thursday night at 6 pm, there was space available.

The Mens: It's cozy in there, but there's enough space to get comfortable. They have a row of cots with closable curtains (for massage clients only) a big wall clock (appreciated) and a long, comfortable wooden bench near the "lockers" for respite and changing purposes. Sinks and toilets are in a separate room I didn't utilize.

Showers were a huge problem. Water pressure was extremely low and those terrible "rain-shower" heads were way to high. Also, the lights were out. It was dark as dark could be in there. So I there I am fighting to get the G-D shampoo out of my beard in the dark when I hear, "Woman entering..." Yeah. The place has a few problems. But for me, it's all about the heat.

The Heat: The Finland Baths boasts just one sauna, but it's a good one. This is one of the last remaining gas stoves in the city ... actually, it could be the last gas stove in a dry, wood-walled sauna. (The City Spa's ovens are gas fired, but the room is rock.) The rocks were piled high and were in good condition. The sauna itself has a cool layout, like a weird triangle sort shape with three levels. I situated myself on top and got ready to sweat.

I threw some water on the rocks. Instead of a sharp snap of steam, it just kind of farted back me. Bad sign. I looked to the thermometer. 145! NO! I could see the flames of the stove and they seemed to be cooking, but it didn't feel like this room was very hot

But after about 10 minutes, I had some good beads of sweat going. Something was working, but still, I wasn't hot hot. It wasn't until about 25 minutes into my bath that a gentleman named Matt came into the sauna. He teaches yoga in the studio above the Finland Baths, and he knew his way around. I asked if he knew how to get the stove cooking, and thank god, he did. He jiggled with the gas lines and the stove goes "Whooosh!" and kicks into gear. Obviously, better if the rocks have been heated for a long time and are just radiating this heat, but I wanted to cook, and Matt was the only answer for this. About 5 minutes later, the sauna's getting hot and Matt and I are having a nice chat about the facilities. He gives me the history on the original owner, a Finn who took exceptional pride in his sauna and stoked it with love and care for decades. Last year it changed hands, and it's been slowly falling into disrepair since (hence, the lights out in the showers, the un-stoked sauna, etc). Apparently the loyalists come on the weekends and are a friendly bunch who take their heat seriously. From these men, I hope to learn the secrets of how to correctly use eucalyptus oil.

Only one real problem exists with the heat, and that's the lack of a cold plunge. The weak showers do very little to provide a rapid cooling many consider necessary to a good heat. The fact that the sauna is so classy really underscores this lacking, essential element.

The Verdict: I'd spend some time there. Maybe not serious time, but I could see becoming a

regular at this joint. (It happens to be right close to where I teach ukulele on Thursday nights, and a good heat could certainly be worked into that arrangement.

(left, Finalnd Baths circa 1945; right Finland Bath circa 2005)